Introduction to Qalamkari
As you wander through the vibrant markets of Isfahan, elaborately patterned fabrics immediately catch the eye. A closer look reveals these masterpieces as the result of Qalamkari, or Qalamkar-making. Qalamkari is the art of printing or designing patterns on fabric, often referred to as block prints. These beautiful textiles serve various purposes, including tablecloths, bedspreads, prayer mats, dining cloths, scarves, bags, quilt covers, cushion covers, handkerchiefs, and decorative banners for ceremonies.
Note: This article is part of our archival content and belongs to a previous phase of our publication. Amaranth Magazine is now a dedicated literary magazine.
A History of Qalamkari
The history of Qalamkari, also known as block prints, is somewhat obscure. One of the most detailed accounts of this art is found in Volume 3 of Pope’s book, where Phyllis Ackerman cites a writer mentioning that this craft first appeared during the 4th and 5th centuries AH (10th–11th centuries CE), aligning with the Ghaznavid period.
Qalamkari experienced a golden age in the 11th century AH (17th century CE) under Shah Abbas’s reign, when royal patronage encouraged its growth. During this era, the court’s interest in the art led to the creation of diverse types of Qalamkari, including the gilded Zar Qalamkari-e, which was widely used for clothing. A unique variety called Delgeh was also developed, celebrated for its intricate designs, alongside traditional patterns featuring red and purple hues.
Over time, Qalamkari evolved in both technique and purpose. It reached its peak during the Safavid period but gradually declined by the mid-Qajar era. From the 10th century AH (16th century CE) onwards, the Qaisarieh Bazaar in Isfahan became a major center of Qalamkari production, with workshops spanning the length of the marketplace.
Today, Qalamkari is one of the most significant handicrafts in Isfahan Province, particularly in Khorzug, where over 70% of the province’s Qalamkari tablecloths are produced. These pieces, traditionally crafted from pure cotton and natural dyes, are highly regarded and exported across Iran and internationally.
Qalamkari: The Art of Printing or Designing on Fabric
The term Qalamkari derives from two Persian words: qalam, meaning pen, and kari, meaning work—translating to “artistic work done with a pen.” During the Safavid era, this craft reached its zenith, supported by the royal court’s special attention. Artisans created numerous varieties, including the renowned gilded Zar Qalamkari, used predominantly for men’s and women’s garments.
Although Qalamkari has transformed over the centuries, it remains a vital aspect of Isfahan’s culture, society, and economy. For this craft to thrive in modern times, innovation in production techniques and marketing strategies is essential.
Materials and Fabrics
The primary material for Qalamkari is cotton, prized for its ability to absorb dyes better than wool. However, other fabrics, such as silk, linen, muslin, and calico, are also used. Among these, muslin and plain-weave cotton are particularly popular for their durability and suitability for intricate designs.
Designs and Patterns
Qalamkari designs reflect a rich cultural heritage, ranging from historical themes to poetic inspirations. Common motifs include historical scenes, depictions of animals (both domestic and wild), miniatures, hunting scenes, dancers, musicians, floral and arabesque patterns, and portraits of poets. Stories from ancient Persian literature, depictions of Iranian lovers, and inscriptions adorned with poetry—particularly the works of Mohtasham Kashani—are also prevalent.
Colors
Historically, Qalamkari dyes were derived from natural sources such as plants, minerals, and animals. However, due to the complexity of preparing and fixing natural dyes, chemical alternatives are now commonly used.
Primary colors—black, red, blue, green, and yellow—are prepared with exceptional care to achieve the desired hues and shades. Secondary colors are created by blending these primary hues. Materials like pomegranate peel, gum tragacanth, rose petals, turmeric, castor oil, and iron rust are used to prepare the dyes. Gum tragacanth, in particular, prevents colors from spreading on the fabric, ensuring sharp patterns.
Printing Blocks
The wooden blocks used in Qalamkari are carved from durable woods like walnut, pear, or hawthorn, chosen for their hardness and flexibility. Artisans skillfully carve the designs by hand, and the blocks are then treated with animal fat to prevent cracking. Multi-colored designs require separate blocks for each color, with artisans sometimes using as many as four blocks for a single pattern.
The Qalamkari Process
Creating Qalamkari involves multiple meticulous stages:
- The cotton fabric is soaked in running water for five days to remove starch and impurities.
- The background is dyed a light beige using pomegranate peel.
- Intricate designs are printed using wooden blocks dipped in black and red dyes.
- After printing, the fabric is washed in running water for 2–3 hours to remove excess dye.
- The fabric is boiled in a cauldron containing powdered pomegranate peel and madder root to fix the colors.
- Finally, the fabric is air-dried and adorned with decorative tassels or fringes before being sent to the market.
The finished fabrics are used for a variety of purposes, including tablecloths, bed covers, scarves, prayer carpets, and bags.
Qalamkari: A Living Legacy
Qalamkari is more than just an art form—it is a reflection of Isfahan’s rich cultural heritage. While deeply rooted in tradition, this craft must evolve to meet the demands of modern markets through innovation in both design and production. From exquisite tablecloths to intricately designed prayer mats, Qalamkari continues to captivate audiences and preserve the timeless artistry of Isfahan.
References:
– https://fa.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D9%82%D9%84%D9%85%DA%A9%D8%A7%D8%B1%DB%8C
– https://himahandicraft.com/%D9%82%D9%84%D9%85-%DA%A9%D8%A7%D8%B1%DB%8C-%DA%86%DB%8C%D8%B3%D8%AA/
– https://www.karnaval.ir/blog/kalamkari-cloth-history
– https://setare.com/fa/news/27175/%D8%A2%D8%B4%D9%86%D8%A7%DB%8C%DB%8C-%D8%A8%D8%A7-%D9%87%D9%86%D8%B1-%D9%82%D9%84%D9%85%DA%A9%D8%A7%D8%B1%DB%8C/
